Paris – 2019


Welcome to Paris – Home of Napoleon and Marie Antoinette

 

My visit to Paris was for the art, its historical monuments, the great food, and the delightful pastries, but aside from all that, I wanted as many Parisian crepes as I could eat. I also had a side mission; experience the rise and fall of Napoleon Bonaparte and France’s iconic but ill-fated queen, Marie Antoinette. I didn’t realize these two crossed paths until I visited The Palace of Versailles. As I explored the city, I realized Napoleon had a strong love affair with Paris and his mark is all over the city. He commissioned many of the famous structures you see in Paris today. 
 
I started my venture at the world’s most iconic structure, the Eiffel Tower. I strolled down the Champs-Élysées, picked me up some pastries and headed to the Arc de Triomphe. The arch was commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 to commemorate his victories, but he was ousted before the arch was completed. I climbed the 280 plus steps to the top for the grand view of Paris. The twelve avenues that radiate out from the arc was insane. I feel if the US had twelve streets coming into one point it would be a massive disaster daily. I am glad they had an under-ground entrance because I have no idea how to cross those crazy roads. 
 
I spent one late afternoon in the Louvre where I visited Napoleon’s apartments. Many visit the Lourve to see the world-famous Mona Lisa, however, I had a different quest. I was in search of the Venus de Milo, Winged Victory of Samothrace, Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss, Sleeping Hermaphroditus, Liberty Leading the People, and my favorite artist Michelangelo’s Dying Slave. The painting, The Coronation of Napoleon, took me forever to locate, which is surprising seeing it is 20 ft x 32 ft and takes up most of the wall. I was able to find it, with some assistance from a Louvre employee, and it did not disappoint. Outside the Louvre stands the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel, a smaller version of the Arc de Triomphe, which was commissioned in 1806 to commemorate Napoleon’s military victories of the previous year.
 
I was not able to venture too close to the Notre-Dame Cathedral, even at a great distance, it was truly a sad sight. You really can’t get a feel for the devastation until you witness it. I left the cathedral and headed north. It was time for me to find Marie Antoinette. I stopped at the Moulin Rouge and the Sacré Coeur Basilica. My first thought once I saw the magnificent Sacré Coeur, “Damn, more steps!?!?” It was definitely worth the climb. The Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Paris was beautiful and amazing inside and out. The weather was gorgeous so I hung around with the crowd and took a ton of pictures.
 
The Palace of Versailles was rainy and chilly. The palace was beautiful, stunning and historic. It took me some time, but I did find my way to Ms. Antoinette’s suite. My venture lead me to Louis XIV’s Gardens of Versailles, the world’s most beautiful gardens. As I strolled through the gardens, I was able to make my way to the crown jewel, Marie Antoinette’s playground, the Queen’s Hamlet. The Queen’s Hamlet, Marie Antoinette’s quaint little village and the farm is one of the highlights of Versailles. I had read that Marie wanted a refuge away from the formality of the court of Versailles. She and her friends would dress in peasant clothes and almost role-play as if they were shepherdesses and farmers. The village has a barn, working dairy, a fisherman’s cottage, and the guardhouse. Further down the bank stands the farm, which included stables, pigsty, sheep pen, and hen house. During the French Revolution, the Hamlet had quite a rough time. When Napoleon Bonaparte became Emperor of the French in 1804, he considered making Versailles his residence but abandoned the idea. During the early 1800’s Napolean had Maria’s Hamlet restored and refurnished as a springtime residence for himself and his family.
 
As I headed north to the Basilica of Saint-Denis, a large medieval abbey church and my first interaction with the infamous Maria Antoinette. Over forty French Kings and thirty Queens are buried inside the basilica, including the bodies of the beheaded King Louis XVI, his wife Marie Antoinette of Austria. She was the last Queen of France before the French Revolution. In January 1793, the radical new republic placed King Louis XVI on trial, convicted him of treason and condemned him to death. He was dragged to the guillotine and executed. Several months later, his queen, Maria Antoinette was imprisoned and also found guilty of treason. At the age of 37, she would suffer the same fate as her husband. 
 
My final stop before heading to London was Les Invalides, the final resting place of Napoleon Bonaparte. Napoleon was in exile on the island of Saint Helena when he passed away and was initially buried in 1821. In 1840, King Louis-Philippe arranged for Emperor Napoleon’s remains to be returned to French territory. His tomb is made of red quartzite and resting on a green granite base. His body is contained in six coffins inside the giant marble sarcophagus. Each of the coffins in made from a different material. The innermost is tin, the next mahogany, then two of lead, followed by ebony, and finally oak.
 
This ends my quest to find Napolean and Maria Antoinette. I had a great time in Paris. I was able to learn a great deal in my short stay. I would love to go back, however, it was time to grab my backpack and camera and head to the train station. Next stop….LONDON…and to find Mary Stuart, the Queen of Scots.